CULTURE and ancient history. The two go hand in hand on the beautiful island of Crete.
Two hundred years ago the island and its people were their own race and country. Separate from Greece and Turkey and with its own unique language, culture and way of life.
I fell in love with the place immediately on my arrival in November 2015.
The Cretans are wonderful, resourceful people. Kind-natured they protect their own with a passion but still have time for strangers and show them a warm welcome and kindness.
In Heraklion, Ayios Nikolaos, Elounda and Pachia Ammos I met with nothing but a smile, help and friendliness – but it was the mountains and the sea all around Creta that really did it for me.
Just looking across Elounda Bay at the wondrous rocky outcrop that is the island of Spinalonga fills your heart with joy and your head with questions and thoughts flooding in from what you perceive as the past.
What happened because of that island in the second world war will not be mentioned here. It is too horrific and disturbing to recount in a piece that sets out to reflect Crete’s good points.
Good points. There are so many and they far outweigh the bad. Heraklion where my visit began is a city I could easily live in. Not too big but with all the facilities close to hand needed for life on an island. The popular squares are vibrant and lively and there are plenty of shopping areas that even I found interesting. Having the port and airport so close to hand is also a big plus and the main bus station was also easy to find with a great variety of cheap services running to all points north south east and west of the island. I had discovered a good half of the island by bus before I left Heraklion – and I was only there three days!
I was to return to Heraklion many times during the rest of the 15 months on the island and of course I visited Knossos Palace – twice. Fascinating place. I couldn’t help thinking as I wandered around the ancient site marvelling at the stone structure and room layouts just what it would have been like way back then with people living in it. What sort of furniture did they have? No TVs of course so what did they do instead? Wonderful.
My last house on Crete was in Pachia Ammos and archaeological sites were in evidence on my doorstep there too. Gournia attracted people from America twice a year . They worked diligently for hours on end on the site for months at a time. It was no different to a lot of other archaeological sites on the island but this one had the protection of wire fencing around it which kept it secure at night and out of hours. There are also beautiful views from the site out to sea.
Driving for me was a joy on Crete. I clocked up over 30,000 kilometres in eight months in an 11-year-old Chevrolet Lacetti I bought in Ayios Nikolaos. I also drove the car back to Manchester – another 1700 miles. The south coast road from Sitia to Ierapetra with the Lybian Sea to your left had me enthralled. Continuing on past Ierapetra can take you to the old hippy town of Matala with its stunning beach caves and from there you can work your way to Heraklion.
My favourite drive though was from Pachia Ammos to Sitea. The picturesque villages, twisting mountain road with the sea below and high rugged peaks on the other side were thrilling. Not everyone’s cup of tea but it is well worth it and there are several cafes and restaurants to stop at and draw breath if need be. Panorama five kilometres up from Kavousi Is just one. Spectacular views across the sea from there as the name suggests. Whale Island as we christened it dominates.
Restaurants are aplenty and my local one was Zorba’s in Pachia. It’s run by Bobo and his family and has good food and a lovely setting by the beach.
Ariadne with its huge open oven/fireplace is a must when visiting Elounda as is Dimitri’s a traditional Greek restaurant opposite the church in Elounda Square and for the musically inclined Rudi’s ska bar with a scooter on the roof is a little unique.
The breathtaking view from The Hope in Mavrikanos enhances your dining experience there and for a real treat try La Casa by the lake in Ayios Nikolaos, Karnagio and Paradosiako where we celebrated my good friend Sue Ashton’s birthday in February along with her husband George, Patricia Shaft and her husband Mario. The latter runs my favourite bar on the island. It glories in the owner’s name – Mario’s – and plays good music, especially on a Sunday night in the season with pro DJ Sam directing the musical operation.
Communication was not a problem for me on this Greek island. I talk all the time and with the odd Kalimera Tiganes and Yassoo thrown in it got the locals onside and brought many a smile. Anyway at the house in Pachia landlord George’s 15-year-old daughter Eleni was always on hand to interpret – even though she had to give up a lot of her leisure time to do so. Well done girl!
As you can see I love Crete as the T-shirts and other souvenirs say and I can’t wait to return.
Kalinichta!
Steve Bott, journalist.